Since graduating from the University of the Arts London in 2008 with a BA in Menswear Fashion Design and Technology, Erin Lewis has joined Mexico’s leading eco-fashion brand, Taller Flora, as head designer of the Charro (Cowboy) Collection, founded by indigenous clothing expert, Carla Fernandez.Such a dramatic shift from the dandy chaps of her graduate collection with Dashing Tweeds in the UK to the indigenous CharrerÃa of Mexico speaks of outstanding open-mindedness, flexibility, and a spirit of adventure on Erin's part.
Recently I had the privilege to interview Erin, so I would like to introduce you to her.
Erin, where are you from originally?
I was born by the sea, Hastings, England.
And what can you tell me about the kind of family you grew up in?
I grew up open-minded and appreciating all cultures. My family has the most amazing life experience, an irreplaceable intelligence. My mother has lived in various places, including Copenhagen, the Sahara Desert, a small farm in Southern Ireland, and a gypsy camp in Sicily. My grandmother traveled the world with her husband, who was in the Merchant Navy—her house is like a ‘world museum’, totally awesome.
When did you first sense a desire to design?
To be honest I have no idea. I have been drawing and painting since I can remember. With design I project creativity into another place, especially now as a girl designing menswear. In my work I can combine history and the future, tradition and design, being a boy and being a girl. I also did training in sculpture; I would love to design furniture someday. I even wonder sometimes about architecture.
What led you into designing menswear?
Jacob Epstien, Cathy de Monchaux, Jon Isherwood, Hamish Black, Rebecca Horn, Louise Bourgeouis—the brute strength and human fragility of the work, of these artists influenced me deeply, simply forms and textures. I’m not interested in trend-led fast fashion, which is where menswear suits me: structured clothes that will last you a life-time. This can be true of womenswear too. For me working at Boudicca was such a privilege: pieces finished to the highest quality and possessing both a masculine and feminine strength. Menswear is my focus and my handwriting, the best place for me to start. This past year, I have also been making womenswear, although no skirts or dresses just yet.
How did you wind up in Mexico?Just before I graduated, I was chosen by the British Council for this project to come to Mexico and work with Carla Fernandez at Taller Flora. It’s an exchange of cultures. Carla is an expert in traditional Mexican textiles and indigenous pattern cutting—all based on squares—and I mix this with my British-trained design and tailoring. It’s always been a dream to travel and work; I never imagined I’d ever end up working with Mexican Charro cowboys!
What about the men’s fashion scene in Mexico…
The fashion scene in Mexico is only just developing really, so it’s an exciting time to be here. It’s hard to compare. London is one of the ‘fashion cities’ and Mexico City is the largest city in the world. I call Isabella La Católica the Savile Row of Mexico City, but it obviously doesn’t have and will never have the same legacy. The young Mexican designers emerging now have to make their own history.
In what ways is Mexico and Mexican fashion impacting you and your designs?
The strength of Mexican people in their history inspired the last collection, from the Aztec eagle warriors to the Adelita girls of the Mexican revolution. Also, we work with traditional textiles, which is an overload in inspiration! The challenge is to take the right ones forward and to use them in such a way that is new and to avoid looking ‘ethnic’. We try to change people’s perceptions of textiles they are familiar with by making them something new, making people appreciate them without preconceptions.
Describe your previous “look” and how has that changed?
For starters, with my last collection I wasn’t working with Mexican Cowboy artisans! I guess this collection was slightly less conceptual as I am considering Taller Flora as a brand that has a focus on the textiles that we use. The shapes and angles that I cut are still there as that’s how I enjoy making the most of a highly visual fabric. The men’s silhouette is still strong and has that warrior-element that I love. Just now that warrior has become ‘Euro-Latino’. That’s pretty hot, no?
Definitely! Thanks so much Erin, and all the best of luck to you!
Photo top left graduate collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Photo middle right Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Slideshow Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
