Fashion Districts 101: from New York to Naples

It is that exciting time of year again for the next edition of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only menswear magazine in Egypt. Since the Spring Edition has met with such wide acclaim, I thought I would give you a sneak preview to the Summer Edition. The following article is entitled, Fashion Districts 101: from New York to Naples:

In last year’s summer issue, I briefly described the history of fashion in Istanbul, which dates back to the days of the Ottoman Empire. Today, Istanbul has grown into a shopper’s paradise brimming with bazaars, covered markets, and award-winning shopping malls.

Nevertheless, these types of commercial centers differ radically from the three major fashion districts in Istanbul; namely, Merter, Osmanbey, and Laleli, which team with fashion houses, showrooms, and garment manufacturers.

Hence, the question arises: “Just what is the fundamental difference between fashion districts and fashion or shopping centers?

To most individuals, a fashion district denotes some sort of urban shopping destination, consisting of designer boutiques, prestigious labels, and haut couture. But a fashion district is not merely a major souk or commercial quarter but rather a specific kind of industrial district.

Categorized as such, fashion districts can be defined as a conglomeration of companies specializing in textile and garment production within the same geographic area, wherein there exists a measure of interdependence and competition.

As will be seen, fashion districts come in all shapes and sizes, each presenting a different history, infrastructure, network of interrelationships, and current setting.

New York City
One of the most famed fashion districts in the world is the Garment District of New York City, which is situated between Fifth and Ninth Avenues from 34th to 42nd Streets, occupying nearly one square mile.

Also known as the Garment Center and the Fashion Center, New York’s fashion district has played a central role in US textile manufacturing and fashion design since the late 1800’s, at which time the driving force of the local industry was a diversified immigrant population.

By the turn of the 19th century, New York was already out-producing every urban rival. Moreover, the city’s garment industry had surpassed all other industries, becoming a center of fashion that set new trends and ever-changing styles.

Although fabric and accessory shops still abound in the Big Apple, most clothing manufacturers have abandoned the island, leaving New York one of the top fashion capitals in the world. The fashion industry is the second largest industry, as well as home to the headquarters of nearly 1,000 fashion companies.

Generating approximately $10 billion in wages, New York City has emerged as a worldwide destination for upscale shopping districts with numerous flagship stores, such as Puma, Benetton, and Dolce & Gabbana.

London
London is a city known for fashion streets, particularly menswear streets. While Savile Row is often associated with fine suits, Jermyn Street is synonymous with shirt making and gentleman’s apparel.

Located in Mayfair of Central London, Savile Row is not only renowned for “bespoke tailoring,” but it is also reputed as the birthplace of the term, which denotes ‘custom-made clothing’.

Built between 1731 and 1735, Savile Row began attracting tailors in the 1800’s due to George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, who popularized the modern-day suit and tie into an image called “the dandy.” Beau, the model dandy, was noted for his impeccably fitted apparel.

Located in Westminster of Central London, Jermyn Street dates back to about 1664 and is celebrated for gentleman fashion, particularly fine shirts.

Naples
Contrary to much popular opinion, Naples and its surrounding towns have been a main fashion hub in Italy for generations, boasting a vibrant garment production industry since WWII.
In 1999, local artisans passed the baton to CIS di Nola, which has become one of the largest fashion districts in Europe—a showcase of 300 companies that unites nearly 1,000.

At CIS di Nola, one may not find the classy upscale showrooms of Dolce & Gabbana or Valentino but the eight islands brim with numerous local labels like my all-time favorite—Primo Emporio.

Besides onsite sales and distribution, CIS di Nola organizes international road shows, such as the recent “CIS Business Tour for Lebanon”—a business-to-business event that took place 11-14 April 2010.

Photo top right Francesco in Istanbul Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.
Photo top left United Colors of Benetton on 5th Avenue, New York, Copyright Benetton.
Photo bottom right Beau Brummell by Herr uebermann, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Photo bottom left CIS di Nola Copyright CIS.

From Chaps to Charros with British Designer Erin Lewis

Since graduating from the University of the Arts London in 2008 with a BA in Menswear Fashion Design and Technology, Erin Lewis has joined Mexico’s leading eco-fashion brand, Taller Flora, as head designer of the Charro (Cowboy) Collection, founded by indigenous clothing expert, Carla Fernandez.

Such a dramatic shift from the dandy chaps of her graduate collection with Dashing Tweeds in the UK to the indigenous Charrería of Mexico speaks of outstanding open-mindedness, flexibility, and a spirit of adventure on Erin's part.

Recently I had the privilege to interview Erin, so I would like to introduce you to her.

Erin, where are you from originally?
I was born by the sea, Hastings, England.

And what can you tell me about the kind of family you grew up in?
I grew up open-minded and appreciating all cultures. My family has the most amazing life experience, an irreplaceable intelligence. My mother has lived in various places, including Copenhagen, the Sahara Desert, a small farm in Southern Ireland, and a gypsy camp in Sicily. My grandmother traveled the world with her husband, who was in the Merchant Navy—her house is like a ‘world museum’, totally awesome.

When did you first sense a desire to design?
To be honest I have no idea. I have been drawing and painting since I can remember. With design I project creativity into another place, especially now as a girl designing menswear. In my work I can combine history and the future, tradition and design, being a boy and being a girl. I also did training in sculpture; I would love to design furniture someday. I even wonder sometimes about architecture.

What led you into designing menswear?
Jacob Epstien, Cathy de Monchaux, Jon Isherwood, Hamish Black, Rebecca Horn, Louise Bourgeouis—the brute strength and human fragility of the work, of these artists influenced me deeply, simply forms and textures. I’m not interested in trend-led fast fashion, which is where menswear suits me: structured clothes that will last you a life-time. This can be true of womenswear too. For me working at Boudicca was such a privilege: pieces finished to the highest quality and possessing both a masculine and feminine strength. Menswear is my focus and my handwriting, the best place for me to start. This past year, I have also been making womenswear, although no skirts or dresses just yet.

How did you wind up in Mexico?
Just before I graduated, I was chosen by the British Council for this project to come to Mexico and work with Carla Fernandez at Taller Flora. It’s an exchange of cultures. Carla is an expert in traditional Mexican textiles and indigenous pattern cutting—all based on squares—and I mix this with my British-trained design and tailoring. It’s always been a dream to travel and work; I never imagined I’d ever end up working with Mexican Charro cowboys!

What about the men’s fashion scene in Mexico…
The fashion scene in Mexico is only just developing really, so it’s an exciting time to be here. It’s hard to compare. London is one of the ‘fashion cities’ and Mexico City is the largest city in the world. I call Isabella La Católica the Savile Row of Mexico City, but it obviously doesn’t have and will never have the same legacy. The young Mexican designers emerging now have to make their own history.

In what ways is Mexico and Mexican fashion impacting you and your designs?
The strength of Mexican people in their history inspired the last collection, from the Aztec eagle warriors to the Adelita girls of the Mexican revolution. Also, we work with traditional textiles, which is an overload in inspiration! The challenge is to take the right ones forward and to use them in such a way that is new and to avoid looking ‘ethnic’. We try to change people’s perceptions of textiles they are familiar with by making them something new, making people appreciate them without preconceptions.

Describe your previous “look” and how has that changed?
For starters, with my last collection I wasn’t working with Mexican Cowboy artisans! I guess this collection was slightly less conceptual as I am considering Taller Flora as a brand that has a focus on the textiles that we use. The shapes and angles that I cut are still there as that’s how I enjoy making the most of a highly visual fabric. The men’s silhouette is still strong and has that warrior-element that I love. Just now that warrior has become ‘Euro-Latino’. That’s pretty hot, no?

Definitely! Thanks so much Erin, and all the best of luck to you!



Photo top left graduate collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Photo middle right Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Slideshow Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.

Excuses, Excuses, And We're Almost Off To the UK!

We're big assholes. Our hearts are here at Chez Binge, but our hands are furiously banging away at job-related assignments. Boo! I, Tamron Lohan, am getting ready to depart on a trip to London and Scotland, while MKHo has sweetly agreed to play back-up babysitter to my emotionally unstable cat, who I'll now post some photos of because I am lazy, and they are right on my desktop:

Him atop my bedroom door.

Demonstrating the many uses of reusable bags. (Note: that's not my arm!)

Shimmying out of his lobster costume (for dogs).

Okay. Next. All you cosmopolitan Binge readers out there: where should I go in London (I was there about seven years ago, and I've never been to Scotland) -- I'll be staying in Clapham -- and Edinburgh? OBVIOUSLY TopShop, and Covent Garden and Camden Market, but are there any cool shops -- vintage? -- that won't leave me dashing to buy an international calling card to phone Chase and ask them to extend my credit card limit??

Comment or email me through the informative "About Me" section of this "Web log."