“Take Ivy” and Spark a Retro Revolution!

Yesterday I read an interesting book entitle “Take Ivy,” which, upon first printing, sparked a fashion revolution among students in Japan.

Although printed for the first time in 1965, this collection of photographs contains significant relevance to menswear trends today.

Authored by Teruyoshi Hayashida, Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, Hajime Hasegawa, “Take Ivy” documents the history of menswear in Ivy League Universities of the United States.

The term “Ivy League” stands for the eight oldest and most prestigious universities in North America; namely Brown, Columbia, Cornell, Dartmouth, Harvard, Princeton, the University of Pennsylvania, and Yale.

The name “Ivy” originated in the 1930’s with sportswriter Caswell Adams for the ivy vines that cover many of the institutions’ buildings.

My first contact with an Ivy League was when I was accepted to the University of Pennsylvania, where I obtained a Bachelor’s in Russian and Chinese and a Master of Science in Educational Linguistics.

For a radically trendy Italian boy like me, I found the Ivy League trends rather stuffy and boring.

But I must admit, the colors and mixtures of prints were definitely bolder than what you will find on Ivy League campuses today.

So, just what was the tradition Ivy League look? For starts, the silhouette was slim, rarely baggy.

Items included button down collars, polo shirts, varsity jackets, blazers, khakis or seersucker trousers, cardigan sweaters with bold numbers, Bermuda shorts, and loafers or dockside shoes.

Ivy League fashion can be associated with the “preppy” look, a term that originated in the 1950’s.

Companies that cater to prep include L.L. Bean, Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, and J. Crew.

Take Ivy from powerHouse Books on Vimeo.

Photo Copyright “Take Ivy.”

Egypt & the Fashion Industry

For many, the mention of Egypt usually conjures up romantic images of camels and golden sand, weather-worn pyramids and Pharaohs, ancient mummies and hieroglyphics.

Few people around the world associate Egypt with a vibrant textile industry; nevertheless, Egypt is one of the world’s major players.

The Egyptian textile industry dates back as far as the pharaohs and, today, accounts for 25% of the total Egyptian industry and 30% of the nation’s jobs.

Second largest industry in the country, the apparel industry produces over 300 million garments a year and more than 300,000 tons of cloth.

If you have ever bought nice bed sheets, then you have probably heard of Egyptian cotton. The phrase alone, 100% Egyptian cotton, can be equated with a solid guarantee of high quality.

What makes Egypt competitive? Until now labor, raw materials, and input costs have been relatively low. Egypt had also signed numerous free trade agreements with the US, the EU, and some Arab countries. Moreover, the government offered assorted incentives.

Nevertheless, the textile industry is not without problems, which have recently been exasperated by the current unrest with curfews and shipping delays.

Although this turmoil will pass, no one knows how the Egyptian textile industry will be defined.
My guess, it may require some time to rebuild, but the industry will continue to churn out those luxurious sheets...and more!

Textiles and finely woven cotton are the mainstays of the Egyptian economy.

Photo Courtesy Scott Chan.

Let It Snow…. Or Not?!

Snow—it all looks alike, right? Well, not to everyone! Think of the words for snow in your native language.

In English alone, I have learned about a half-dozen ways to describe falling snow and over 20 terms to define snow lying on the ground.

Living just outside of New York City, I just experienced what would suffice as enough snow for a lifetime! As I am typing, there lie 76.2cm (30 inches) of snow outside my door!

To many couture designers, snow and all its characteristics serve as a powerful yet natural inspiration for their creations: the sparkle, the drifting, the crystals, the textures—and much, much more!

To me, another aspect of snow applies to the world fashion and design, and it is for this very purpose that I write: uniqueness!

As the axiom holds true that “no two snowflakes are alike,” there are even several categories into which snowflakes may fall.

Fashion, costume, dress, menswear, style—call it what you may—speak of our identity.

Have you ever noticed that most people seek to dress alike? The more different those certain individuals dress, the stranger they become?

This sort of reasoning stems from the fact that most individuals crave a sense of belonging to a given group and, in most societies, our outer appearance defines us.

That’s why snowflakes inspire me—they are a celebration of our unique identity!

If nature itself allows for no two snowflakes to be alike, why shouldn’t we allow others to express their uniqueness in their outer appearance?

So I leave you with a thought as we approach the end of another year. Are you a snowflake or a snowdrift?

Either way, you need to put something on! So, I invite you to another year of exciting menswear reading!

As for me, I’m going to let it snow! See a few more snow images here.

Photos Copyright Men’s Fashion by Francesco.

2011 Style Guide by Francesco: Panting over Pants & Below

Two weeks ago, I delved into a series of articles called “2011 Style Guide by Francesco,” pointing out how the main staple of this fashion season is none other than the suit—but with a twist.

The pendulum is swinging more formal, but with a modern, urban flair; so if we truly want to achieve this twist, we have to take an in-depth look at pants.

Now, you could take the easy road by purchasing a suit that comes with a jacket and matching pants, but you probably will not master the compete look of the season.
Currently, the right slacks for your suit attire will probably not be identical to the jacket but rather different in shade, color, hue, texture, material and/or pattern.

If you are ever unsure, don’t be embarrassed to ask for experienced help: matching colors and coordinating patterns require a good level of fashion sense.

If you are mixing up your look with a pair of jeans, for example, a darker color pair will normally go better with a suit jacket of a different color, texture, and/or pattern.

Whatever color or pattern you do choose, make sure the pants are without pleats, low waist, and slim leg. The young at heart may even throw on a blazer over some very snug-legged pants.

How Tight is Tight?
For the past few seasons, leggings have been appearing on the runways around the world, however, since most men would not wear them, they translate into in everyday life as snug-fitting pants—in some cases, almost as if they have been painted on!

Sock It to Me!
Thanks to designers like Thom Browne, some men are wearing their slimmer pants slightly above the ankle, showing some “skin” in the summer and some lively color-coordinated socks in the winter.

Again, if you do not have much experience, ask for help with this look; otherwise you may walk out of the store looking like you just put on some hand-me-downs!

Nevertheless, a little color showing at the ankle and coordinated with another item like the tie can really set you apart from the crowd!

Have a look at more examples here.

Photo Copyright Giovane Gentile.

Uomo Moda: Fashion Weeks 101

The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week—New York
(Reprint from Uomo Moda 2010 Summer)

A favorite pastime from ancient times has been the parade of costumes and dress. Now, in modern times, most major cities around the world feature some sort of fashion event. Simple, one-night fashion shows have been sprouting everywhere, even on college campuses where students parade down the catwalk to the beat of their favorite tunes.

Larger cities host events called fashion weeks—eight days of runway presentations from morning to night, showcasing the world’s most talented designers and models. One of the most notable fashion weeks is the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, which is held semi-annually in New York City.

Although New York retailers had attracted clients to their stores for decades with fashion parades, the first most recognizable fashion week in the Big Apple was “Press Week.” Fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert launched the event in 1943 to detract attention from Parisian parades during WWII by spotlighting US designers—to journalists only!

The event was an immediate success, drawing the attention of popular magazines like Vogue. In the aftermath, numerous fashion events mushroomed throughout the city in a wide variety of locations; but it was not until 1994 that New York Fashion Week, organized by IMG Fashion, was kicked off in the big “white tents” of Bryant Park at 42nd and Sixth Streets.

Although the tents have come down once and for all at Bryant Park, Uomo Moda enjoyed the honor to receive a VIP pass to the last edition in February. Starting in September, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week will take place at the Damrosch Park in Lincoln Center. Long-term sponsor of the event, Mercedes Benz has confirmed sponsorship for another 3 years.

Photo 2010 Summer Edition Uomo Moda.

Off the Catwalks and Onto the Sidewalks

A Letter from the Editor

Uomo Moda 2010 Summer Edition

Spec•ta•tor \’spek-,tā-tər\ noun : someone who watches; an onlooker; an observer. [from the Latin spectāre, to watch.]

In one way or another, we are all spectators in life, whether we go to the stadium to see our favorite soccer team or merely sit on the sofa in our living room to watch a late night movie.

If you are like me, possibly you enjoy window shopping—just strolling down the main boulevard with a friend, looking at all the merchandise that fills the shop windows.

In this Summer Edition of Uomo Moda, we are taking you on a whirlwind tour, from the fashion districts of London to the runways of New York Fashion Week.

But what a pity it would be simply to sit back and flip through the articles, marveling at the beautiful glossy photos and thinking, “I wish I could dress like that!”

Well, this is what Uomo Moda is all about: we are here to show you that you CAN!

Our deepest hope is that, after reading this issue, you no longer sit passively as a spectator; rather, you become an active participate in Uomo Moda, in Men’s Fashion!

Men, let’s take our cities by storm by taking the fashion off the catwalks and onto the sidewalks!

It starts with Uomo Moda. It starts with me. It starts with you! Off the catwalks and onto the sidewalks!

Photo Copyright 2010 Summer Edition Uomo Moda.

Mods, Menswear & Music

Mods is a shortened version of the word “Modernists,” a subculture that sprouted in London, in the 1950’s, reaching its height in the 60’s.

The movement was characterized by jazz, soul music, Jamaican ska, British beat, coffee shops, and Italian scooters.

The Mods eventually gave way to numerous subsequent movements and subcultures. In thime, therefore, the term came to stand for anything that was modern.

Interestingly, the Mods were obsessed with stylish clothing. They found their inspiration in the Beatniks and the Teddy Bears, who revived the dandy of the Edwardian period (1901-1910).

Tailored suits with thin lapels and narrow ties were the look. V-necks, button-down shirts, and leather shoes were their norm. Some men highlighted the Mod image with mascara and lipstick.

Often appearing in menswear today, the Royal Air Force Roundel was a symbol of the Mod male.

It is not uncommon to see the influnce of the Mods on contemporary menswear labels, such as Johnny Love.

Photo Royal Air Force roundel, Public Domain at Wikipedia.

Retro-futurism and Fashion

Retro-futurism has reared its head in the fields of fashion, art, film, and architecture for years.

It plays on the tension between past and future by taking what is “retro” and portraying it in the light of futuristic technology.

Typically retro-futurism refers to the imagined future that was projected by novelists, film writers, and artists prior to the Sixties.

In terms of fashion, we all remember the futuristic clothing of “old” movies, such as the body-fit outfits in the US series Star Trek or the Japanese series Ultraman.

Lloyd John Dunn of Harlan, Iowa, is accredited with coining the term in 1983.

For several years now, retro-futurism has been influencing modern designers and labels, such as Johnny Love of Norway.

Photo by Stefan Prohaczka, Copyright Free Art License at Wikipedia.

Dress for Success: Part 2

Some researchers claim that up to 50% of the impression you make depends on how you look; in other words, you are being judged for your outer appearance!

If this be the case, think about it: when you are at a job interview or making a sales presentation, only half the impact depends on what you are saying. The other half? What you are wearing!

In some countries the corporate world can be tough on outer attire. Sometimes unforgiving. Even prejudicial. Just like rules of conduct, there exist strict dress codes.

Countless companies prohibit flip flops, jeans, sleeveless shirts, sneakers, suit suits, excessive jewelry, visible tattoos, short skirts, and more. Violation of any regulation may lead to dismissal and even termination.

So what is the key? Appropriateness—your fashion statement is industry-specific! If you are joining a company as a civil engineer, then maybe jeans and a flannel shirt are the right choices. But if you are making a sales pitch to Milan’s top legal consultants, probably your best suit would betray you if it were not tailored and the latest style.

This lesson is particularly difficult for recent graduates from university where individualism and fashion statements may have been appreciated. But as for a professional wardrobe for any given industry, the recent grad may be found wanting.

So, what is the solution? Proceed reading onto Part 1.

Photo Francesco coaching students at Arcadia University.

Dressing for Success at Arcadia University: Part 1

One of my favorite pastimes is to lecture at various local universities, colleges, and fashion institutes on an assortment of topics, such as the history of fashion, cultural branding, journalism, and international fashion business. Plus, hanging around up-and-coming talent has proven to keep me young at heart!

Several weeks ago, I received an invitation from one of the organizers of the first fashion show at Arcadia University, just outside Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in the US.

Founded as Beaver College in 1872, the university has a student body of 4,000 men and women enrolled in 75 fields of study.

The theme of the fashion show was “Dress for Success,” and the Banana Republic store of downtown Philadelphia graciously provided the wardrobe of their latest collection!

Since most of the students that signed up as models had never set foot on a runway, when I arrived onto the campus I immediately rolled up my sleeves and got down to work.

Many of the students were naturals, while others had to take a few “walks” to get the feel; but all in all each student strutted out the evening with stylish confidence.

One of the most practical ways to teach how to Dress for Success? Hold a fashion event! Way to go Arcadia!



For more information on this event, refer to Arcadia University Dress for Success.

Spring Color Trends & a Happy Easter!

Today is Easter Sunday when millions around the world are celebrating the holiday in one way or another. Regardless of whether we believe in the significance or not, in the northern hemisphere spring is here—a time in which all of Nature seems to come back to life in wonderful Technicolor!

This morning when I awoke, I began to think of the spring color palette, not at any recent fashion week but rather on Nature’s runway! Meanwhile, since it is a religious holiday for so some many countries, I also began reflecting on how, throughout history, religion has dictated the dress codes of followers.

At times, the dress code has been dark, drab, and dreary as with the old-time Pentecostals. At other times, the garb has been vibrant and colorful as with Buddhist priests or Catholic cardinals.

I remember the first time I took a ride to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where a religious group by the name of the Amish live. Everyone was dressed plainly in muted colors, except for the men of some progressive sects, who wore different colored shirts.

The Amish trace their beginnings back to 1693 in Switzerland, migrating to Pennsylvania in the 18th century. Dress to the Amish is a serious issue as it symbolizes their devotion. Some leaders allow flashier colors, as long as they are found in nature.

I pondered on this thought today: How would men dress if they allowed Nature to determine their color palette and styles? So, I grabbed my camera and took a walk, snapping away.

I learned a lesson: to be like Nature! Be bold, be happy, and be colorful!

Happy Easter & Happy Spring!

Photos Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

Cheimaphobic Or Thermophobic Fashion: Which Trend Are You?

(March 12, 2010) Fears, fears, fears—there are many kinds of fears in this world. But one fear is known as cheimatophobia; that is, the fear of winter.

Cheimatophobiacs fear the lack of heat and, thus, tend to overdress for all occasions. Well what about the opposite situation: people who fear the heat and, hence, tend to under dress? I guess we could label this fear: thermophobia.

Now, I’m not a cheimatophobiac; but I do hate the cold! So living here near New York has been no joy ride for me throughout the brutal winter. Nevertheless, I have observed a fascinating trend—one that, well, even if I wanted to adopt, physically I could not.

When I moved to this area in September of last year, many guys were still wearing flip flops, t-shirts, and short pants. By November, I was already freezing my tush off and—to my amazement—there were still guys in flip flops, tees, and shorts!

Recently, the entire region was hit with one of the worst blizzards ever; and just this past weekend something short of a typhoon blew through the area, wreaking havoc and destruction.

Suddenly this week, the daytime temperatures have peaked at about 60° Fahrenheit (15° Celsius), and guess what? The guys are back in flip flops, short pants, and t-shirts, even in the brisk evenings!

Of course, this is not the case for all the guys, but I think you are starting to get my point, which is, first, there are no mid-seasons here. But not only—

If the guys are so intent on hanging onto to their beachwear until the last possible minute and ready to toss out their winter collection on the first less frigid day, engaging in any kind of business here requires some “thermophobic” thinking.

Hm, or maybe I should just buy some stock in flip flops! I think I may be just a bit cheimatophobic (chuckle)!

Photo Copyright Men’s Fashion by Francesco.

Finalmente

Despite the saying “Never judge a book by its cover,” clearly both American and Italian men do judge but according to different degrees and standards.

As for which standard of judgment you want to apply or even the choice of book you want to snuggle up and read at night, well, I will let you decide that for yourself!

Read the full article:

Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!

Part 2: Formal

Part 3: Fitted

Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly

Part 5: Fashion-ability

Part 6: Fear “less”

Part 7: Fine Tuned

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (6) Fine Tuned

Last but not least, Italian men find great pleasure in co-ordinating the entire look.

Co-ordination entails the right choice of each garment and accompanying accessories, as well as matching colors not only to other colors but also to skin complexion and hair tones.

As a matter of fact, many Italian labels promote something called “total look” collections.

Total look is particularly helpful to men who are “fashion challenged”: all they have to do is purchase a complete outfit from any given collection, and they are ready to go from head to toe.

Read the full article:
Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!
Part 2: Formal
Part 3: Fitted
Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly
Part 5: Fashion-ability
Part 6: Fear “less”
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (5) Fear “less”

When it comes down to fashion, Italian men are not totally fearless; but they are definitely less afraid of new colors and innovative styles than American men. Virtually no color is taboo, while it is not uncommon for Italian men to adopt a radically different style from one season to the other.

In general, Americans tend to wait for a rare color or style to “catch on” before everyone can be seen wearing it. I recall the painstaking difficulty of selling the square-toe shoe to American men back in 2001. Now, eight years later, they seem like they will just not go away.

Read the full article:

Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!
Part 2: Formal
Part 3: Fitted
Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly
Part 5: Fashion-ability
Part 7: Fine Tuned
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (4) Fashion-ability

Italian fashion is in constant change and flux.

Although there may be two major fashion seasons in Italy as with other countries—namely, Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter— throughout the course of each season, fashion houses release minor collections called “flashes.”

A flash entails roughly 15-20 new pieces, which are released about every 3-4 weeks throughout any given season. Each flash offers new shades on the color palette, as well as slight alterations in style.

Although American men find this hard to believe, many young men in Italy used to visit my showroom each week to inquire about new merchandise, often requesting to see a catalog to catch a sneak peek of the upcoming flash!

Read the full editorial:
Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!
Part 2: Formal
Part 3: Fitted
Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly
Part 6: Fear “less”
Part 7: Fine Tuned
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (3) Frilled but not Frilly

Another major difference in values between Italian and American male dress lies in the attention to detail.

Italian men, in general, tend to pay considerable attention to detail in their dress.

First, Italian brands incorporate assorted embellishments into their designs, such as asymmetrical pockets or necklines, double stitching, extra buttoning, playful belt hoops, and so on.

Secondly, Italian men love to accessorize. It is not uncommon for Italian men to crown their head with a pair of cool sunglasses or strap a small wallet-size bag across their shoulder. Wrist bands, ankle bracelets, and stylish scarves complete the cover!

Italian men, however, do not restrict their attention to detail solely to clothing or accessories but rather to their entire outer appearance.

Italian barbers and hairstylists, for example, exert much effort in ensuring that each “cut” corresponds to the general “look” of the male sitting in the chair. Accents of facial hair then accompany the cut to highlight the entire look.

Read the full editorial:
Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!
Part 2: Formal
Part 3: Fitted
Part 5: Fashion-ability
Part 6: Fear “less”
Part 7: Fine Tuned
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (2) Fit

Italian designer, Francesco Smalto, once declared “Fashion, in my opinion, is balance. It’s taking into account the shape of the head, the shoulders, or the stomach.”

Accordingly, the first concept behind fitted or tailored clothing in Italy is proportion: Italian men value proportion, equating it to seductive elegance.

For the most part, Italian brands accentuate the male physique, creating a silhouette of broad shoulders and a robust chest as the upper garment narrows down to a thin waist.

Correspondingly, the bottom wear picks up where the upper wear left off, accentuating the buttocks, thighs, and strong slim legs.

Contrary to current trends in the US, Italian men prefer to wear clothing that corresponds exactly to their size.

American men tend to “buy up,” not just one size but several sizes, creating a more baggy silhouette, to which they often refer as “casual.”

As for Italian men, “casual” has nothing to do with size.

Read the full editorial:
Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!
Part 2: Formal
Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly
Part 5: Fashion-ability
Part 6: Fear “less”
Part 7: Fine Tuned
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

7 Major Differences Between Italian and American Men: (1) Formality

The first of seven major differences between Italian and American men lies in the degree of formality within their dress.

In general, Italian men tend to be more formal in dress than American men, especially at the workplace.

Currently in some job settings, Italian businessmen can be seen in a jacket and tie with jeans and casual shoes—that is, as long as the jeans and shoes are stylish, meeting the standards and conditions outlined below.

Even in other social settings outside the workplace, Italian men think twice before leaving the house. For example, an Italian young man would not commonly go to school or attempt taking his girlfriend to a restaurant dressed in a plain undershirt, sweat pants, or gym shorts—much less in flip flops!

Read the full editorial:

Part 1: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!

Part 3: Fitted

Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly

Part 5: Fashion-ability

Part 6: Fear “less”

Part 7: Fine Tuned

Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

Never Judge a Book by Its Cover, Unless It’s in Italian!

Although the phrase “Never judge a book by its cover” has a relatively short history, being widely popularized in 1947 by Cary Grant in the movie the Bachelor and the Bobby-Soxer, the concept actually dates back to the days of antiquity.

Consequently, in most languages and cultures there exists some way to express the admonition. Despite its widespread use and popularity, however, the fact of the matter is that most cultures do judge books by their covers!

What differs, however, are the values that each culture applies in judging any given book. When it comes down to the books of fashion, apparel, and dress, the irony cannot be truer!

Throughout my life, I have lived in eight assorted countries and I have worked in a dozen others. Time and time again, I have been confronted with the same question: “Why are Italian men so stylish?” The answer is quite simple.

The reason lies in the degree to which Italian society judges the covers of their “books.” When it comes down to the books of fashion, apparel, and clothing, Italians place a very high value on outer appearance as compared to other countries, such as the US.

Fortunately I am acquainted with the buying patterns of both Italian and American men. I worked in retail for some time in the US, while I ran my own showroom in Italy.

So, hopefully without transgressing into stereotypes, I will point out the major differences in values between Italian and US men and the degree to which each one judges outer appearance by its cover.

Read the full article:
Part 2: Formal
Part 3: Fitted
Part 4: Frilled but not Frilly
Part 5: Fashion-ability
Part 6: Fear “less”
Part 7: Fine Tuned
Part 8: Finalmente

Photo Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.