Damat/Tween at Istanbul Fashion Week: “Limited Edition”

ORKA group, the dynamic fashion house of one of the world’s highly sought after brands, has just put on another spectacular fashion show of the Damat Tween brands hosted at Santral İstanbul, for the Istanbul Fashion Week 2011.

Thinking about a “limited” collection to underline the essential pieces for celebrations, special parties, and gatherings, Damat/Tween created a timeless and extraordinary collection that will eternize the unforgettable memories of our lives.

Designed for young and dynamic men that are experiencing their first excitements in life, ties made of unusual materials such as leather or knits and accessories combined with metal details replace conservative neckties.

As essentials of a gentleman’s wardrobe, shoes come forward as the distinctive pieces of the collection. Made of suede, leather and velvet reflecting the color palette of the whole collection, these shoes are perfected with bindings and special embroidery. A variety of velvet bowties, ties and vests that appeal to a wide variety of personal style preferences will be the favorite pieces of the season.

The combination of midnight colors such as saxe, ruby and dark green with surprising materials adds on to the distinctive characteristics of Damat Tween’s “Limited Edition” collection.

See the entire runway collection here.
Photos & text Copyright Orka Group.

Damat/Tween at Istanbul Fashion Week

At the most recent editionn of Istanbul Fashion Week, Turkish label Damat/Tween presented a 2011 spring/summer collection with the them of Prom Boys & Girls.

Prom is short for promenade. At the end of the students’ senior year in the United States in Canada, a formal black tie dance called “the Prom” is held.

Some schools differentiate between a Senior Prom and Junior Prom, while many other countries have equivalents to the US and Canadian proms.

Nevertheless, guys normally rent a tuxedo, buy their date a corsage, and take a formal picture of the couple.

Oftentimes, a Prom Queen is chosen, as well as a Prom King and Prom Court—all very regal sounding!

Historians trace the origins of proms to the late 1800’s. See the collection here.

Photos Copyright Orka Group.

Formalwear? Never fear, Manzetti is here!

Mention formalwear and some guys begin to tremble. Mention a tux—and oftentimes you get male fear factor!

But formalwear and tuxedos are the epitome of male elegance, and Manzetti takes the shudder out of both!

Whether with bow tie or straight tie, cummerbund or suspenders—there are few other ways to impress the crowds than with a formal tux-like suit or full-fledged tuxedo!

For spring/summer 2011, Manzetti has just launched a chic line of formal menswear that will guarantee you look your stunning best, no matter what the formal occasion.

Have a look at the entire collection here.

Photos Copyright Manzetti.

2011 Style Guide by Francesco: Getting to the Bottom of Things—Shoes

One major mistake that the more conservative male dresser commits against his suit is the color of the shoes—black only.

Don’t get me wrong, though. The black dress shoe should be an integral part of every man’s wardrobe; but this season it is all about breaking it up a bit—boldly mixing and matching.

Traditionally, shoes matched your belt. So instead of black, why not try brown; then, match the shade of brown to your belt and accessories, such as your briefcase or shoulder bag.

Now if you are really confident with your eye for color, seek out a shoe with a splash of color and—then—match that color with your tie, sweater, vest, or belt.

(Bear in mind, however, belts are not imperative this season. A beltless suit look can add an air of casual confidence and a little more length to the slim silhouette that you are trying to achieve.)

As for the type of shoe, the ankle-high dress boot is a nice variation. If you live in an area where the winter or rainy season is messy, lace up a more rugged-looking boot.

Finally for the young at heart, a stylish yet unpretentious sneaker can spice up a casual but “cooler” look.

(P.S. Retire the square-toe shoes!)

Check out more great looks for shoes here.

2011 Style Guide by Francesco: Panting over Pants & Below

Two weeks ago, I delved into a series of articles called “2011 Style Guide by Francesco,” pointing out how the main staple of this fashion season is none other than the suit—but with a twist.

The pendulum is swinging more formal, but with a modern, urban flair; so if we truly want to achieve this twist, we have to take an in-depth look at pants.

Now, you could take the easy road by purchasing a suit that comes with a jacket and matching pants, but you probably will not master the compete look of the season.
Currently, the right slacks for your suit attire will probably not be identical to the jacket but rather different in shade, color, hue, texture, material and/or pattern.

If you are ever unsure, don’t be embarrassed to ask for experienced help: matching colors and coordinating patterns require a good level of fashion sense.

If you are mixing up your look with a pair of jeans, for example, a darker color pair will normally go better with a suit jacket of a different color, texture, and/or pattern.

Whatever color or pattern you do choose, make sure the pants are without pleats, low waist, and slim leg. The young at heart may even throw on a blazer over some very snug-legged pants.

How Tight is Tight?
For the past few seasons, leggings have been appearing on the runways around the world, however, since most men would not wear them, they translate into in everyday life as snug-fitting pants—in some cases, almost as if they have been painted on!

Sock It to Me!
Thanks to designers like Thom Browne, some men are wearing their slimmer pants slightly above the ankle, showing some “skin” in the summer and some lively color-coordinated socks in the winter.

Again, if you do not have much experience, ask for help with this look; otherwise you may walk out of the store looking like you just put on some hand-me-downs!

Nevertheless, a little color showing at the ankle and coordinated with another item like the tie can really set you apart from the crowd!

Have a look at more examples here.

Photo Copyright Giovane Gentile.

“Retired Rockers”—Umit Benan

The Retired Rockers inspiring the f/w 2010-2011 collection are a group of musicians who made music history in the 1970s and ‘80s, once young and wild kids with no direction beyond rousing an entire generation to a blaring rock beat.

Umit Benan presents his vision of these old rockers—his rockers—imagining a rock band à al Rolling Stones that gets together with a few old buddies, such as Bob Dylan and Bruce Springsteen and with produce Ahmet Ertegun (the man who discovered them and who, not coincidentally, shares the designer’s Turkish roots).

See the collection here.

Photos Copyright Umit Benan.

“Home Sweet Home”—Umit Benan

The summer wardrobe designed by Umit Benan pivots on the primary dualism between masculine and feminine, every pursuing—in the intense new colors, the luxurious materials, the clean or fluid shapes exquisitely in sync with the body—a concept of pure easy elegance.

The palette explores different earth and sea tones: dark bark brown, ink black, deep hues of navy and mocha flank much softer and lighter nuances, such as Evil Eye Ocean blue and sun bleached stone grey. Green and orange have a sieved quality, thanks to mélange weaves; while macro stripe and madras plaid prints add graphic energy to the freer mixes.

Have a look at the image gallery.

Photos Copyright Umit Benan.

Manzetti Wedding Suits

My first trip ever to Turkey dates back to the summer of 1995 when I attended a conference just outside the ancient city of Smyrna—now İzmir—on the Anatolian coast.

Boasting a population of 2.6 million inhabitants, İzmir is Turkey’s third largest city with a history of 3,500 years—one of the oldest settlements in the Mediterranean.

Throughout history, İzmir has been home to numerous peoples, such as the Hittites, the Greeks, the Lydians, the Persians, the Romans, the Byzantines, and the Crusaders. The Turks temporarily conquered the city in 1076 and, finally, in 1426.

Besides my brief visit to this magnificent city, I had the added opportunity of spending several days in the nearby resort town of Kuşadası, walking almost an entire day amongst the ruins of ancient Ephesus.

Now, İzmir has come to me in the way of Manzetti—a unique brand of men’s wedding wear.

In 1974, Mehmet Calık and Niyazi Sisci founded Miteksan Menswear in İzmir. Twenty years later Mehmet’s son Hüseyin Calık, along with Murat Sisci and Veli Efe, became the shareholders of the company.

Finally after 36 years, the third generation has entered the scene with Efe Calık, export manager, whom I recently met.

The designer of the Manzetti label is İlkay Ates, a Textile Engineering graduate of Afyon Kocatepe University.

Just last year, Manzetti released 80 models of formal men’s wedding wear with 300 customers in Turkey, as well as in 7 countries of Europe.

Photos & slideshow Copyright Manzetti.

The Tween 2010 Spring Collection: “Modern Masculinity”

For spring 2010, Tween has geared up an energized collection of multicultural blending based on the pop icons and social movements of the 60’s and 70’s, which have impacted youth cultures around the world for generations.

The collection entitled Modern Masculinity narrates an emotion-felt story of generation gaps, defiance to peers, and disobedience to parents—all ending in reconciliation through an exchange of a garment!

Hence, Modern Masculinity embodies the spirit of teenage rebellion as portrayed in the 1955 film Rebel without a Cause, in which the introspective actor, James Dean, was star. Confident in his poses, often leaning against an object, the renegade yet slightly preppy Dean revisits us in a slim silhouette of classic, timeless coolness.

The attitude of Modern Masculinity is set in the “Swinging Sixties” with all the geometric shapes of the London mod look. Eccentric details like playful borders, unique collars, and Dandyish bowties charge the collection with a jolt of energy.

A palette of neutral and bright colors is balanced to create seasonal basics with colorful directional core items. Tones of sand, stone, and sky have been chosen to match a wide variety of skin complexions. Vibrant colors like bright yellow add a high voltage to the collection!

The key items of Modern Masculinity consist of jackets and shirts, which are colored, patterned, and informal. Also present this season is a selection of fine leathers and dyed knits, as well as piece-dyed denims.

Tween—challenging the staid rules of modern masculinity within the young generation’s new found affluence!



Read all the articles by Francesco in 2010 Spring Uomo Moda:
Uomo Moda ‘10 Spring Edition—the All-Star Issue
Be a Star in Spring 2010: Editorial, Uomo Moda
PUMA: Over 60 Years of Reaching for the Stars
Dolce & Gabbana: 2 Stars in Italian Luxury
Dolce & Gabbana 2010 Spring Collection: “Extreme Beauty”
United Colors of Benetton: A Family of Stars
Benetton's Star Desginer: Vincenzo ScognamiglioUnited Colors of Benetton: 2010 Spring/Summer Collection
Tween: a Rising Star

Photo & slideshow Copyright Orka Group.

Tween: a Rising Star

• Slick
• Proud
• Spirited
• Mysterious
• Multicultured
• Etno Masculine
• Sophisticated
• Progressive
• Consistent
• Dynamic
• Noble

The Company
ORKA Tekstil was established in 1986 by Mr. Süleyman Orakçıoğlu, who, together with his brother Mr. Halidun Orakçıoğlu, direct 78 concept stores in 40 countries with a total of 264 sales points. The company has since been renamed the Orka Group, which has branched into three unique brands, including the deluxe formalwear of Damat, the trendy label Tween, and the casual line ADV.

The three labels have grown so popular that the late king of pop, Michael Jackson, purchased a tuxedo from the Damat-Tween store at the Sabco Center in Oman back in 2005. The 60’s music icon Ringo Starr has joined the world celebrities who prefer Tween, as well as Brad Pitt and Fatboy Slim. Several football legends of the Chelsea team have followed suit.

Since the company’s inception, Mr. Süleyman Orakçıoğlu has demonstrated outstanding entrepreneurship, which has earned him numerous awards over the years. In turn, the ORKA Group has also been decorated with prestigious titles and acclaim, such as most successful company and brand.

In addition to speaking at international panels, Mr. Süleyman Orakçıoğlu has founded assorted associations and chaired national boards like that of the Turkish Textile and Apparel Exporters Association.

The Label
Orka’s trendy label, Tween, was founded in 1995 as an accessible designer brand that could bridge the gap between the luxury sector and mainstream markets, thus satisfying the need of a major niche in menswear consumerism. So, just who is the perfect Tween fit?

The Tween kind of guy tends to be more progressive than most. He is sophisticated, multicultural, and dynamic! Spanning the ages of 25-50, the Tween male is definitely high class: a man of modernity who likes to mix it up a little by combining multiple colors with metropolitan styles.

Until the 1990’s, men dressed themselves under the roof of their preferred labels, assuming the look and feel of a certain name brand. Contrariwise, the contemporary Tween man bases his look and individual style on a completely new set of criteria, such as his favorite music or a personal attitude.

For this reason, Tween’s mission has been to provide the essential basics to all men who shop outside the group. Through a marriage of flattering functionality and individual style, the collections aim at supporting each man’s personal taste with unpretentious details and perfect fits.

Photos Copyright ORKA Tekstil.Tween is the offspring of Orka’s creative director, Ms. Güneş Güner Işik, who has been working with the company since 1995. Educated at the Marangoni Institute and the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan where she acquired a flair for street fashion and menswear, Ms. Işik draws her multicultural bent from the fashion hubs of New York and London.

In each design, Ms. Işik adheres to the principles of authenticity and simplicity as she balances creativity with reality. Blending eastern and western karmas into her creations, Ms. Işik exalts modern masculinity, which is symbolized by the ram’s antler of the Tween monogram.

Read all the articles by Francesco in 2010 Spring Uomo Moda:
Uomo Moda ‘10 Spring Edition—the All-Star Issue
Be a Star in Spring 2010: Editorial, Uomo Moda
PUMA: Over 60 Years of Reaching for the Stars
Dolce & Gabbana: 2 Stars in Italian Luxury
Dolce & Gabbana 2010 Spring Collection: “Extreme Beauty”
United Colors of Benetton: A Family of Stars
Benetton's Star Desginer: Vincenzo ScognamiglioUnited Colors of Benetton: 2010 Spring/Summer Collection

Photos Copyright ORKA Group.

Giovane Gentile & Giovane G: 2 Nice Labels for Men Who Look Nice (Part 2)

In preparation for the next issue of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only men’s magazine in Egypt for which I write, I would like to bring you a foretaste of what the issue will entail in this two-part artcle (click here for part 1):

As some of you may already know, the 1800’s in Europe laid the foundation of the modern era for menswear, introducing concepts like lounge wear, formal wear, outdoor wear, sportswear, and the tuxedo. All styles, however, were based on the 3-piece suit. Changes were continual, occurring progressively with each decade and culminating in the 1890’s.

With the new notions of equality from the French Revolution, menswear became less ostentatious and more uniform. Embroideries and lace went out the window. The length of pants dropped to the ankle. Boots became a mainstay. The debonair dandy was conceived.

Double-breasted waist coats featured long tails and high collars. Overcoats were particularly façonnable. Broad shoulders and a narrow waist portrayed a real gentleman. High collar shirts were worn with a variety of cravats.

Out went the wigs and in came natural hair, just oiled or waxed. Curly hair was prized, as well as sideburns and—later—goatees. Conical hats evolved into the top hat and—soon—wide brim hats, bowler hats, and straw boaters were being sported.

Eventually the frock coat replaced the tailcoats, which were reserved for formal occasions, while numerous new styles of coats and jackets appeared on the scene. Collars evolved continually, as well as the shape of ties and bow ties. Shoe heels grew in height.

For the contemporary urban dandies of 2009-10, Giovane Gentile and Giovane G have kindly resurrected the slim silhouette of the 19th century dandy. As you will see, double-breasted jackets sported over classic cardigans stand center stage of the collection.

As for color, the collection takes us for a mid-Autumn walk through our favorite park with all the grey stones and withered leaves scattered about the ground. Clearly, we should not expect a lot of colors on this season’s palette with Giovane Gentile and Giovane G.

The colors for Autumn/Winter 2009-10 are more about setting the stage for texture—lots and lots of texture! Various shades of black and numerous tones of grey mingle with pure white in pattern checks, plaids, and argyles, as well as stripes, dots, and tiny squares.

Like the popularity of boots in the 1890’s, mid-ankle boots will be one of the key accessories that add authentic masculinity to the androgynous trends of Autumn/Winter 2010.

Alluding to the clean cuts of the tuxedo, the most formal look of Giovane Gentile and Giovane G for this season entails a relaxed version of the 3-piece suit.

Giovane Gentile and Giovane G—a vintage photograph of the dapper debonair dandy for the sophisticated modern man who has the time to care about himself!



Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Giovane G.

Giovane Gentile & Giovane G: 2 Nice Labels for Men Who Look Nice (Part1)

In preparation for the next issue of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only men’s magazine in Egypt for which I write, I would like to bring you a foretaste of what the issue will entail in this two-part artcle:

Ercem Tekstil has been operating in the manufacturing and retail business since 1984, launching onto the fashion market two well-rooted brands that have bolstered the company to the forefront of the industry, not only in Turkey but on several continents as well.

The principle driver behind Ercem Tekstil’s success has been a customer-focused approach as the company selects high-quality local materials and sources exclusive fabrics from the European Union.

Secondly, Ercem Tekstil has employed a team effort in designing unique garments with an eye to innovative styles. No wonder Ercem Tekstil enjoys 15% of the local market with sales points in the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia, Kazakhstan, Syria, and Egypt!

Thirdly, Ercem Tekstil is no mere garment manufacturer but rather a premium brand sartoria. Sartoria is the Italian word for atelier in French and can translate as a designer studio, a tailor or seamstress shop, or even an artist’s workroom.

Traditionally, a sartoria was where men and women purchased exclusive made-to-measure attire; hence, the English word ‘sartorial’. There are few genuine sartorias today, but Ercem Tekstil seeks to preserve the tradition, specializing in elegant men’s fashion.

The two “sartorial” brands of Ercem Tekstil include Giovane Gentile and Giovane G—very appropriate names. Giovane means ‘youth’ or ‘young’ in Italian, whereas Gentile translates as ‘kind’ or ‘nice’. So together: Nice Young Man—surely how every man wants to appear!

So, what do Giovane Gentile and Giovane G have in store for all the men who want to look nice this Autumn/Winter season? Exactly what we have been watching on the runways around the world: a return to the sophistication of the original dandy! Now, why not let these two Kind Young Men labels take us for a walk back in time?!

(Click here for part 2.)

Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Giovane Gentile.

B-Turk: Relics of the Ottomans on Tees

Several weeks ago, I featured an article on three menswear brands of a Turkish manufacturer called the Orka Group. The labels included Damat, Tween, and ADV.

Since then, I have kept you in suspense about a fourth line that the Orka Group has recently launched. It’s called B-Turk, and I have waited, knowing that the concept would be very fitting to our discussion on the history of the Mediterranean isles. In the company’s own words, B-Turk defines itself as:

“a cosmopolitan culture that has survived through thousands of years, inheriting a multicultural, multi-religious, and multilingual structure…bringing the legends of authentic and ethnic Turkish values, symbols, and objects that have evolved throughout national history together.”

The designer is Reha Erdoğan, a graduate from the Istanbul Academy of Fine Arts, Graphics Department, where he received both BA and MA degrees.

B-Turk is radical Turkish design that embraces music, fashion, cuisine, and much more. The fashion line encompasses 50 designer t-shirts, which showcase cultural and historical symbols of the Ottoman Empire.

Sometimes known as the Turkish Empire, the Ottoman Empire lasted from 1302 to 1922 and, with Istanbul as its capital, spanned three continents: southeastern Europe (the Balkans), western Asia, and North Africa. In essence, it is the successor of the Eastern Roman Empire and Byzantium.

While the Ottoman Empire absorbed many cultures, cuisines, and styles of architecture, dress, and music, the Empire also enfused the peoples within its borders with the same influences, leaving a lasting impact that can be seen, heard, and felt today.

So, if you wanna B-Turk, then buy B-Turk!



Photo Copyright Orka Group.
Slideshow Copyright Orka Group.

Damat, Tween, ADV—3 lines in 1 by the Orka Group

When the two Turkish brothers, Süleyman and Halidun Orakçığlu, founded Orka Textile in 1986, they launched a formal menswear label called Damat, a “total look” of classic ready-to-wear fashion.

Currently with 76 concept stores in 36 countries, the company, which has been renamed to the Orka Group, has added more lines to their repertoire, including the trendy label Tween and the casual wear line ADV.

The company has grown so popular that, in 2005, Michael Jackson purchased a tuxedo from the Damat-Tween store at the Sabco Center in Oman. Several football legends of the Chelsea team have followed suit in subsequent years.

The 2009 s/s Damat collection was inspired by the 60’s and 70’s of the coastal towns in Southern Europe with all their silks, linens, and energetic colors. Damat has even incorporated bio-tech fabrics into this collection.



The ADV 2009 s/s collection draws its inspiration from the spirited garments of regatta competitions, offering lots of tees with embroideries, as well as fused emblems and prints on natural organic and bamboo fabrics—a definite choice for the environmentally minded man.



If you plan on visiting the Magic Show in Las Vegas this August, then you are in luck, because Tween will be in attendance. If you cannot make it to the trade show, well, here is a sneak peak at the 2009 a/w collection, which has received its inpiration from the provocative masculinity of James Dean.



The Orka Group has recently added one more label to their portfolio of men’s collections, but I’m not going to tell you just yet. You’ll have to wait until the end of the month: I have a huge surprise in store for you—promise!

Photo Copyright Orka Group
Slideshows Copryright Orka Group.