2011 Style Guide by Francesco: Getting to the Bottom of Things—Shoes

One major mistake that the more conservative male dresser commits against his suit is the color of the shoes—black only.

Don’t get me wrong, though. The black dress shoe should be an integral part of every man’s wardrobe; but this season it is all about breaking it up a bit—boldly mixing and matching.

Traditionally, shoes matched your belt. So instead of black, why not try brown; then, match the shade of brown to your belt and accessories, such as your briefcase or shoulder bag.

Now if you are really confident with your eye for color, seek out a shoe with a splash of color and—then—match that color with your tie, sweater, vest, or belt.

(Bear in mind, however, belts are not imperative this season. A beltless suit look can add an air of casual confidence and a little more length to the slim silhouette that you are trying to achieve.)

As for the type of shoe, the ankle-high dress boot is a nice variation. If you live in an area where the winter or rainy season is messy, lace up a more rugged-looking boot.

Finally for the young at heart, a stylish yet unpretentious sneaker can spice up a casual but “cooler” look.

(P.S. Retire the square-toe shoes!)

Check out more great looks for shoes here.

2011 Style Guide by Francesco: Panting over Pants & Below

Two weeks ago, I delved into a series of articles called “2011 Style Guide by Francesco,” pointing out how the main staple of this fashion season is none other than the suit—but with a twist.

The pendulum is swinging more formal, but with a modern, urban flair; so if we truly want to achieve this twist, we have to take an in-depth look at pants.

Now, you could take the easy road by purchasing a suit that comes with a jacket and matching pants, but you probably will not master the compete look of the season.
Currently, the right slacks for your suit attire will probably not be identical to the jacket but rather different in shade, color, hue, texture, material and/or pattern.

If you are ever unsure, don’t be embarrassed to ask for experienced help: matching colors and coordinating patterns require a good level of fashion sense.

If you are mixing up your look with a pair of jeans, for example, a darker color pair will normally go better with a suit jacket of a different color, texture, and/or pattern.

Whatever color or pattern you do choose, make sure the pants are without pleats, low waist, and slim leg. The young at heart may even throw on a blazer over some very snug-legged pants.

How Tight is Tight?
For the past few seasons, leggings have been appearing on the runways around the world, however, since most men would not wear them, they translate into in everyday life as snug-fitting pants—in some cases, almost as if they have been painted on!

Sock It to Me!
Thanks to designers like Thom Browne, some men are wearing their slimmer pants slightly above the ankle, showing some “skin” in the summer and some lively color-coordinated socks in the winter.

Again, if you do not have much experience, ask for help with this look; otherwise you may walk out of the store looking like you just put on some hand-me-downs!

Nevertheless, a little color showing at the ankle and coordinated with another item like the tie can really set you apart from the crowd!

Have a look at more examples here.

Photo Copyright Giovane Gentile.

2011 Style Guide by Francesco

What’s Hot, What’s Not & How to Own It for Yourself

For many men, fashion is fickle—the pendulum can swing from one extreme to another in relatively no time at all!

This situation can present multiple problems because, with all the radical changes, it is difficult to know what’s in style, what is not, what’s mere trend, and how to adopt a new look.

Back in the 1970s, for example, it was fashionable to wear suits with wide ties, huge lapels, and bell-bottom pants—the kind that widened from the knee to the ankle.

Afterwards, however there occurred a gradual “casualization” of trends whereby suits, ties, slacks, and jackets became more and more unpopular—even in the office!

Well, this season the pendulum is swinging back to the opposite end of the spectrum, wherein the main ingredients of a man’s wardrobe are none other than the suit and tie—but only with a millennium twist.

While the tie, jacket, and pants may constitute the milk, flour, and sugar of the cake, it is entirely up to you this season how you want to bake the cake—and believe me, there is a lot of mixing in the making.

At the same time, there are some guidelines, which I would like to spell out over the next few weeks. I will be using a photo gallery courtesy of Giovane Gentile.

First of all, contrary to the wideness of decades past, the current male silhouette is slim, sleek, and elongated.

Please note: this look has nothing to do with your height or weight. You can still pull it off if you are not so tall or thin, and I plan to show you how, even if you are a bit shorter and hefty.

In the meanwhile, let’s lay out some more staples that are gaining ground around the world in addition to the fitted suit.

Another trend that is catching on quickly is layering, often seen on the runways around the world as “draping.”

In everyday language and use, draping translates as “layers,” which can appear like a sweater worn under a suit jacket, a down vest over a suit jacket, bow ties, scarves, topcoats, bags, and more.

One extra “layer” that is gaining popularity is the trench coat—but reinterpreted.

During my recent visit home to Italy, I saw what I call the “sawed-off” trench; that is, a shortened version of the trench coat that extends just below the waist.

Finally, hats are returning to men’s wardrobes with unprecedented speed. I am not talking about baseball caps but rather various types of hats.

Well, we have a lot of ground to cover, so stay tuned this week for more menswear trends and how to make them yours! Guys, it’s time to own the trends!

Guys, it’s time to own the trends! See more examples here.

Photos Copyright Giovane Gentile.

Giovane Gentile & Giovane G: 2 Nice Labels for Men Who Look Nice (Part 2)

In preparation for the next issue of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only men’s magazine in Egypt for which I write, I would like to bring you a foretaste of what the issue will entail in this two-part artcle (click here for part 1):

As some of you may already know, the 1800’s in Europe laid the foundation of the modern era for menswear, introducing concepts like lounge wear, formal wear, outdoor wear, sportswear, and the tuxedo. All styles, however, were based on the 3-piece suit. Changes were continual, occurring progressively with each decade and culminating in the 1890’s.

With the new notions of equality from the French Revolution, menswear became less ostentatious and more uniform. Embroideries and lace went out the window. The length of pants dropped to the ankle. Boots became a mainstay. The debonair dandy was conceived.

Double-breasted waist coats featured long tails and high collars. Overcoats were particularly façonnable. Broad shoulders and a narrow waist portrayed a real gentleman. High collar shirts were worn with a variety of cravats.

Out went the wigs and in came natural hair, just oiled or waxed. Curly hair was prized, as well as sideburns and—later—goatees. Conical hats evolved into the top hat and—soon—wide brim hats, bowler hats, and straw boaters were being sported.

Eventually the frock coat replaced the tailcoats, which were reserved for formal occasions, while numerous new styles of coats and jackets appeared on the scene. Collars evolved continually, as well as the shape of ties and bow ties. Shoe heels grew in height.

For the contemporary urban dandies of 2009-10, Giovane Gentile and Giovane G have kindly resurrected the slim silhouette of the 19th century dandy. As you will see, double-breasted jackets sported over classic cardigans stand center stage of the collection.

As for color, the collection takes us for a mid-Autumn walk through our favorite park with all the grey stones and withered leaves scattered about the ground. Clearly, we should not expect a lot of colors on this season’s palette with Giovane Gentile and Giovane G.

The colors for Autumn/Winter 2009-10 are more about setting the stage for texture—lots and lots of texture! Various shades of black and numerous tones of grey mingle with pure white in pattern checks, plaids, and argyles, as well as stripes, dots, and tiny squares.

Like the popularity of boots in the 1890’s, mid-ankle boots will be one of the key accessories that add authentic masculinity to the androgynous trends of Autumn/Winter 2010.

Alluding to the clean cuts of the tuxedo, the most formal look of Giovane Gentile and Giovane G for this season entails a relaxed version of the 3-piece suit.

Giovane Gentile and Giovane G—a vintage photograph of the dapper debonair dandy for the sophisticated modern man who has the time to care about himself!



Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Giovane G.

Giovane Gentile & Giovane G: 2 Nice Labels for Men Who Look Nice (Part1)

In preparation for the next issue of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only men’s magazine in Egypt for which I write, I would like to bring you a foretaste of what the issue will entail in this two-part artcle:

Ercem Tekstil has been operating in the manufacturing and retail business since 1984, launching onto the fashion market two well-rooted brands that have bolstered the company to the forefront of the industry, not only in Turkey but on several continents as well.

The principle driver behind Ercem Tekstil’s success has been a customer-focused approach as the company selects high-quality local materials and sources exclusive fabrics from the European Union.

Secondly, Ercem Tekstil has employed a team effort in designing unique garments with an eye to innovative styles. No wonder Ercem Tekstil enjoys 15% of the local market with sales points in the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia, Kazakhstan, Syria, and Egypt!

Thirdly, Ercem Tekstil is no mere garment manufacturer but rather a premium brand sartoria. Sartoria is the Italian word for atelier in French and can translate as a designer studio, a tailor or seamstress shop, or even an artist’s workroom.

Traditionally, a sartoria was where men and women purchased exclusive made-to-measure attire; hence, the English word ‘sartorial’. There are few genuine sartorias today, but Ercem Tekstil seeks to preserve the tradition, specializing in elegant men’s fashion.

The two “sartorial” brands of Ercem Tekstil include Giovane Gentile and Giovane G—very appropriate names. Giovane means ‘youth’ or ‘young’ in Italian, whereas Gentile translates as ‘kind’ or ‘nice’. So together: Nice Young Man—surely how every man wants to appear!

So, what do Giovane Gentile and Giovane G have in store for all the men who want to look nice this Autumn/Winter season? Exactly what we have been watching on the runways around the world: a return to the sophistication of the original dandy! Now, why not let these two Kind Young Men labels take us for a walk back in time?!

(Click here for part 2.)

Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Giovane Gentile.