Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts

Friday, June 4, 2010

The Turkish Touch: Part 3

Bulgaria’s Turkic vanquishers, the Ottomans, had been driven out of their own homeland by the Mongolian Tartars. En route to refuge in Asia Minor, the Turks were converted to Islam. Once they had swept Byzantium into their possession in 1453, adopting Constantinople as their capital, they gained a foothold in the rest of the Balkans.

The remnants of the Ottoman Empire are all but invisible. Mosques stud the skyline. Gypsies pass under Turkish surnames. Bulgarian converts to Islam—Pomàks—still subside in pockets around the country. The street language and jargon borrow heavily from the Turkish language—such as haide—and traditional styles of music, dance, and dress have close ties with Turkey.

The most prominent of influences may well be the Turkish food, which can be found in every corner of the Balkans. Turkish coffee is steeped in the grains and sipped therewith. Shish kebobs, Turkish delights (jelly candies), and halvah (sesame paste candy) are promoted as local treats.

Photo mosque in Sofia, Bulgaria, by Konstantin, GNU Free Documentation License at Wikipedia.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Basically Bulgarian: Part 2

Bulgaria is a crossroads where East and West converge. A smattering of elements from Greece, Byzantium, Turkey, Russia, and the West have been absorbed into Bulgaria’s language, culture, cuisine, music, and mentality. Bulgarians leap in a circle dance called the horà. Female choirs chant oriental melodies with the accompaniment of bagpipes and flutes. Adding distinct Mid-Eastern flair, the once one-million-strong Turkish community spices up village life and open-air markets where Bulgarians, Turks, and Gypsies mingle.

Numbering less than eight million today, the Bulgarian people descend from Central Asian ancestors, who, in AD 680, arrived to the Balkans from the regions north of the Caucasus that neighbor Georgia and Armenia. While one branch of Bulgars pushed westward to modern-day northern Italy, a second clan of two- to three-hundred thousand nomads settled Bulgaria’s present homeland.

By the ninth century, the newcomers had already been slavicized, having mixed in with the pre-existing Slavic tribes that had ebbed into the region toward the end of the fifth century. The original inhabitants, who had long garrisoned the land, were the Thracians—a barbaric, warring people who, being wracked with disunity among their tribes, were assimilated by the Slavic and Bulgar influx.

In an all-out effort to conquer Byzantium, or Eastern Rome, the desire of which is conveyed in the royal title assumed by Slavic monarchs—”tsar” from the Latin “Caesar”—the Bulgarians were, in turn, conquered. As a result, in AD 865 the Bulgarian tsar extended a warm welcome to Eastern Orthodoxy, which was imposed on his subjects as the State religion. Until 864 AD, the Bulgarians had worshipped their supreme god, who was depicted by a horse. Interestingly, it has been conjectured that the name “Bulgar” connotes ‘one who tans hides’.

Bulgaria lays claim to two of the greatest eastern missionaries originating from Byzantium, who translated the Scriptures into the old Slavic language and converted many Slavic nations to the Orthodox Faith. They have gone down in history under the title of Methodius and Cyril, the latter giving name to the Cyrillic alphabet, which the two men conceived purely out of missionary motives. This alphabet has been employed in sixty nations.

In the tenth and twelfth centuries, the Bulgars laid groundwork to powerful empires and, as the cradle of Slavic literacy and culture, circulated apocryphal writings across the land. In AD 988, Bulgaria’s missionaries blazed as far north as to the ancient Rus where the old Bulgarian tongue and Orthodox Faith were imported and have since poured the foundation for the Russian language and religion.

In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the Bulgarian language and folk styles of music also penetrated the Balkans. Bulgaria’s glory faded overnight, when the Turks invaded in 1396 and harnessed their Bulgarian foes with the yolk of a five-hundred-year servitude.

Photo by Klearchos Kapoutsis of the Great Basilica at the Outer Town of Pliska, the first Bulgarian capital, Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license at Wikipedia.
Photo Cyril and Methodius by artist Zahari Zograf (1810–1853) Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Photo traditional costumes in the Rhodope Mountains by Silar, Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0 License at Wikipedia.

Monday, May 31, 2010

Surviving in Sofia: Part 1

Since I was on a roll—literally, a rolling train heading from the Soviet Union to Bulgaria—I thought that I would continue my saga. So, getting back to the story…

The year was 1990. It was a warm Indian summer day in September when I disembarked from the Soviet Train. There were no reception committees to meet me as in China, no organized tours to usher me around. Nevertheless, I managed to find an apartment that was old but functional.

It offered a pullout sofa bed in the living room, a shower in the kitchen, and, what I had thought was only Chinese: a Turkish-style toilet that dripped and froze over in the cold winter months. The living room had a large space heater—at least it was warm! There was an additional room reserved solely for storage purposes.

From the first lap of my 4-year stay, political and economic chaos had gained the upper hand in the country. Protests and strikes made the headlines daily. The country was in a state of crisis. My hunch was that the previous ruling party had masterminded the mutiny in order to discredit the coalition of newly elected democrats.

As a result, the hardships persisted. Shelves were empty and stores were out of goods! By the onset of winter, the crisis had mushroomed. Some teenagers clued me in on a cubbyhole amidst the storefront shops on the main boulevard that sold mini pizzas for a few cents. We could tell when the market hit rock bottom by the decreasing red sauce on the pizzas! How could I survive?

One snowy day, a tractor-trailer from Switzerland that was loaded with a cargo of humanitarian aid parked in front of my bungalow. My address had been handed to the driver for the drop-off. Hundred-pound bags of flour and sugar, crates of clothes, oil, instant soups, cans of pâté, and shampoo had to be unloaded. All morning, the driver and I lugged them upstairs to the vacant room adjacent to my living room.

In plastic trash bags lay piles of exactly that, which I needed—pullovers and winter boots. For weeks on end, I had a supply of flour, oil, sugar, pâté, soup, and the magnanimously appreciated new set of warm clothing, most of which I distributed to the local residents.

Bulgaria has come a long way over past 20 years since the democracy movement ignited. On January 1, 2007, Bulgaria acceded to full membership within the European Union. Today, the country has also become home to a vibrant fashion scene. Bulgarian men love to dress in the latest styles. As a matter of fact, Bulgaria is home to a Men’s Fashion Week—a rare occurrence in any country!

Photo top right Former Bulgarian Communist Party Headquarters in Sofia by Pascal Reusch
GNU Free Documentation License at
Wikipedia.
Photo center right National Palace of Culture by Cameltrader at GNU Free Documentation License
Wikipedia.
Photo bottom left Old Tram by Jerzy Kociatkiewicz Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license at
Wikipedia.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Francesco's Travels: Table of Contents

Balkans/Eastern Europe
BulgariaSurviving in Sofia: Part 1
Basically Bulgarian: Part 2
The Turkish Touch: Part 3
One for the Ladies!
The Cultural Heritage of Petar Petrov
Greece apaptform—Where Greece Meets Japan
Macedonia Marjan Pejoski & Kokon To Zai
RomaniaGypsies, Vampires, and Rozalb de Mura
SerbiaThe Dominant Strength of Serbia's Dejan Despotović
SloveniaSENS, Feeling the Touch of Slovenian Class!
TurkeyTurkish Anyone?
Mediterranean Isles & Coasts
Intro The Mediterranean Isles of Italy
Western Europe
BelgiumMoutonCollet: Sometimes Silence is Silver
Veronique Branquinho & the Antwerp Six...or Seven?
PortugalSalsa Jeans Adds Some Spice to Bread & Butter Berlin
SpainToledo—the City of Three Cultures
Italy
IschiaIschia: Roots on a Rim
MacerataElia Maurizi & "Who Is On Next"
NaplesIschia: Roots on a Rim
PompeiiFrom the Ashes of Pompeii
San Marino San Marino: Still Paving the Way
SardiniaWelcome to Cagliari
When in Sardinia, Eat as the Sardinians...and with them!
Nora: from Phoenicia to Carthage and onto Rome
The Nuraghic People, "Su Nuraxi" & UNESCO
Sardinian Nuraghis Rock!
Tharros: Nuraghic Foundation
Tharros: from Phoenicia to Carthage & onto Rome
Bauladu—Country Living in Sardinia
Oristano: Its Musuem & Festivals
Alghero—Sardina’s Little Catalonia
Antonio Marras—the Designer from Alghero

Sulcis—the Why to it All
The Nuraghic “People of Bronze” Come Back to Life
Russia
Former USSR My Romance with the Color Red
Cracks in the Berlin Wall
Shifting Gears: from China to Eastern Europe
Calm, Cool, and...Calamity?
Munching in Moscow
Siberia Hayam Hanukaev Sets Russian Fashion Week Free
North America
PhiladelphiaMatthew Izzo Presents Wrath Arcane at 1st Friday
Philadelphia Fashion Week—a “First” Definitely Not to Be Missed!
China
BeijingHappy Chinese New Year!
Designer Chi Zhang's Northern Capital of Fashion
My SojournMenswear—Not Just Fashion: Focus on China
A Culture Vulture at Heart
Trained by Trains

"Trained" Foriegn Experts
First Impressions
Social Divide
Chomping around China
When in Rome....
Workers—Another Kind of Army
Guizhou Minorities in the 80's
Miao People—All about Fashion
Zhuang Fashion
Yao Men, Yao Women—the Differences Pervade Them All
The Song of the Dong
Yi Fashion
Southeast Asia
Thailand

Bangkok, Menswear & Darwin's Beagle