Bring on the Noise Spring/Summer 2011

Inheriting the 70`s punk spirit, the Art Punk Movement “No Wave” started in the New York underground scene.

The collection “Bring on the Noise” carries the chaotic scene that No Wave has created.

We would like you check out the design work of the cutting and the pleats, to the waterproof material, transactional geranium, cross-stitched material, all the way to the original material and the Vintage Scurf.

Collaboration:

James Chance
One of the greatest punk scene designers from the late 70`s to the 80`s. Sublimating the sound of James Brown, he has influenced the music scene. Truly the legend and the man of the No Wave New York underground scene.

Shoes
“Libertas” in Latin means freedom and liberty. Just like the name, this design has no rules and no laws. Only freedom for you.

Accessories
We want the people to say "This is the one!.” Searching around the world for the right material... Collaborating with the old and the new... All handmade. We give you "The One": RT.

See more shots here.

Photos & text spring/summer 2011 collection, Copyright Bring on the Noise.

Y-3 Escapes to New York During Fashion Week

Y-3 hits the road for Autumn/Winter 2011 with a collection inspired by the nature of escape—on horseback, on foot, and into the hills. Fittingly, the show presented clothing designed for a journey, combining classic materials and silhouettes with futuristic and protective details like waterproof zippers, neoprene insets, holographic toggles, and ergonomic quilting. Shown in New York’s Soho district on Sunday, February 13, 2011, as part of New York fashion week, the collection debuted on a set constructed to resemble a dusty trail, further underscoring the season’s back-to-nature message.

The collection explored variations on a theme of escape and was inspired by books, such as Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road” and Jon Krakauer’s “Into the Wild.” This meant protection first and foremost, realized in exaggerated funnel-neck collars; simple modularity; voluminous, cocoon-like silhouettes; and intensive quilting on everything from hoods to coats to leggings. In classic Yohji Yamamoto fashion, prints and patches on select garments spelled out the collection’s theme, stating phrases like “Nowhere in Particular,” “Homeward Bound,” and “I’m on the Road.”

Ultimately, the show was about the journey not the destination, and the clothing was designed with this in mind. Y-3 for men followed a similar trajectory, showing army parkas, striped union suits, quilted work jackets in suede and wool, and cotton leggings inset with panels of Fair Isle knits.

Y-3 presented two new breakthrough fabrics: Cool Max Wool, breathable wool with an evaporative cooling system, and Diaplex, a wool herringbone bonded to Goretex that molds itself to the body, becoming like a second skin.

On the accessories front, Y-3 underscored the collection’s themes of warmth and comfort, showing oversize hooded scarves, quilted nylon hats, and gloves belted with three pieces of leather—a subtle play on the three-stripes tradition. Shoes for men and women combined the technical expertise of Adidas with classical shapes and materials, like a Japanese warrior boot with a cutout sole for men, and an “origami” wedge heel for women.

“Traveling means coming back home,” Yamamoto explained backstage of the show’s inspiration. “We are always unconsciously wanting to come back. It is one of man’s strongest desires.”

See the runway shots here.

Text Courtesy Image.net.

“Functional Beauty” with Kiryuyrik

After Japanese designer Masakatsu Takayanagi graduated from Bunka Fashion College, he worked for Yohji Yamamoto as a patternmaker.

Just seven years later, in 2002, Masakatstu launched Kiryuyrik in conjunction with Yuki Taniyama, who, in turn, is a graduate from Kyoto Seika University and Bunka Fashion College. She also worked for Yohji Yamamoto as a press agent.

Kiryuyrik’s concept can be summed up in two words: functional beauty.

Have a look at the entire collection here.

Photos 2011 spring/summer collection Copyright Kiryuyrik.

Ethosens “Cover of Life”

What wraps you?

The 2010-11 autumn/winter collection was created from the images of receiving a life by the mother’s body and the birth into the world. It is the space wrapped with ultimate safety. Humans are mysterious, sensitive, and irreplaceable.

For the season, we took the meaning that wearing clothes is not only for the body but also for the spirit and created the collection under the theme of “Cover of Life—What wraps you?”

People are vulnerable and live by wrapping with something. It may be Love, Emptiness, or a Fence.

About Ethosens
“Ethos” has the meaning of ‘habit’”, while “sens” has the meaning of sense.

Ethosens was born by fusing these two words.

We think that there is a new discovery by paying more attention to all sense to be born from habit.

We aim at the innovative expression that can become the standard in the future, and we want to pursue the essential creation that can bring new a sense of values in the world.

Ethosens is the creation of Yui Hashimoto, who graduated from Esmod Tokyo in 2000. Afterwards he worked as an assistant in YAB-YUM and LOLO of the fashion brand.

Ethosens was launched in 2007 and presents its collection twice yearly in Tokyo.

View the entire collection here.

Photos & text Copyright Ethosens.

2011 According to Issey Miyake

As we come to the end of another year, many of us are eager to discover what 2011 has in store for men’s fashion. Probably never more than now, it all depends on who is doing the forecasting.

While Men’s Fashion by Francesco is primarily concerned with emerging menswear designers from around the world, every so often we need to hear from those who have long emerged—what I call, the griffes.

Whether we like it or not, for the most part, the griffes have a worldwide impact on fashion trends and styles, setting the stage for what filters down to the masses.

So, first, let’s take a look at the spring/summer 2011 press release of Issey Miyake, who looks to nature for inspiration next year:

The Trout
The Trout lives in cold streams. He is a master of disguise, secreting himself quietly while all around him life abounds with activity. Cautious and patient, he waits and he watches. Suddenly, when the chance arises, he reveals himself—the flash of a beautifully dappled figure in the water – and he takes his prey.

His patience, his elegance and the beauty of his fighting spirit is revealed.

ISSEY MIYAKE Spring-Summer 2011 collection is inspired by the nature of the Trout.

Trout Plaid
Energetic and graphic abstract plaids are achieved through knitting, weaving and printing techniques in a variety of vivid rainbow colors. Worn with ragged circle pattern A-POC GALAXY denim series.

Trout Trad
Hidden pockets and details are camouflaged in new traditional ISSEY MIYAKE suits, in charcoal and navy. Steeley gray suits with chalky white pinstripes that seem to disappear for a fleeting moment.

Trout Tricks
Jacket, pant and waistcoat series which is double woven and cut to reveal pockets; the hidden reverse weft reveals itself only when it is necessary, mimicking the characteristic behavior of a trout. A woven dot pattern is also inspired directly from a trout.

See more images here.

Photos Copyright Issey Miyake.

About Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake was born 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan, where he both witnessed and survived the nuclear bomb, which was dropped on August 6, 1945.

In 1964, Issey graduated from the Tama Art University in Tokyo with a degree in Graphic Design, going on to work in both Paris and New York for the next six years.

In 1970, Issey returned to Japan and founded Miyake Design Studio. In the 1990’s, he pioneered a new technique called garment pleating.

Issey’s concept of design is to create with one piece of cloth as he explores the relationship between the body and that piece of cloth.

Since 2007, Dai Fujiwara has been the Issey Miyake House Creative Director.

See more images here.

Photos Copyright Issey Miyake.

Shellac—for Real Men

In biology shellac is a resin that is secreted by female lac insects, which are found in the forests of India and Thailand.

In music, Shellac is a minimalist rock trio from North America.

In fashion, Shellac is a Japanese menswear label, which is designed by Hideshi Maruya.

Unknown to most, shellac is a slang term, which means ‘to strike, batter, or defeat’. Shellac applies this term to its image as the fundamental desire to destroy just another commonsense and unveil the elegance the lies behind that boldness.

The brand is directed at “the man who has the ability to value his own sense and never lose his power, defiance, and ambition, which keep flowing out of his inner self.”

Check out the look book here.

Photos Copyright Shellac.

Eclectic Trends: from the Past, Present, Future—by 0044

Over the past year or so, I have been travelling throughout the Mediterranean studying the history of menswear and the impact on various cultures on the runways today.

In many of my writings, I speak of the flow—draping—which was so prevalent in the wardrobes of ancient Greek men, the Romans, and throughout the cultures of the Middle East, right down to modern times with tribes like the Tuaregs and other Middle Eastern men.

For spring/summer 2011, the label 0044 has prepared for us a collection of flowing menswear. The color palette is basic and the look is casual.

You will notice cape-like garments, low-crotch pants, and tunic-like items.

See the trends here.

Photos Copyright 0044.

COMING SOON is the first contemporary brand without the name of the designer mentioned. It is a brand created for a generation of women and men who wear what they like without stating who designed it.

These individual looks that combined Japanese style DNA with an Italian vestibility are timeless, casual wear pieces made with perfect construction and sophisticated simplistic details. One of the signs of COMING SOON is the dot logo on the label that is directly embroidered on the clothing making it visible on the outfit’s exterior.

For its sixth collection, Spring-Summer 2011, the COMING SOON catalogue itself strengthens the idea of the “Coming Sooners”, a gang of real people agreeing with COMING SOON’s philosophy; thus the Spring-Summer look book features an artistic family made of journalists, art directors, or editors, as the first chapter of this new tribe’s story.

This season, COMING SOON went back to the roots of the brand. It asserts its style through natural fabrics and a soft scale of colors: on a base of black and white is developed a palette of beige, greige, autumnal shades and different tones of blue (from light to royal and navy), enlighted with touches of pure red.

Both men and women can enjoy a large range of accessories, from the 72-hour bowling bag or the ideal daily tote bag coming with its matched Japanese clutch, to the polka dot bicolor scarf bringing back the dot logo on the foreground.

Men’s side is playing around the perfect masculine wardrobe. Classic suits worn with trilby hats and scarves seem to have a British accent, which one can also find in the Prince-of-Wales prints. The reversible vest—now a COMING SOON classic—that matches a casual shirt and used jeans, could be the ideal uniform for a poet, who would also wear his white shirt outside with his striped suit and would not hesitate to counterbalance the smartness of his jacket with dot logo t-shirts or sneakers.

This sixth collection is like a game with classic codes, a complex simplicity, a succession of soft suggestions never taken literally but always with a twist. A game of hide-and-seek leading to a subtle balance: eventually the essence of COMING SOON.

View the entire collection here.

Photos & text Copyright Yohji Yamamoto.

Day 4 Rap-Up: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, New York

is ready to rock, taking inspiration from the icons of music history for an explosive collection of hard-core looks. From lambskin leather motorcycle vests to tailored military jackets, Y-3’s
Spring/Summer 2011 show took a tour through three decades of rock style, sending a model army of Janis Joplins, Elvis Presleys, and Jimi Hendrixes out onto the runway.

Presented on Sunday, September 12th as part of New York fashion week, the collection explored the power and escapism of rock and roll, a theme that was underscored with a live sound track courtesy of British band The Duke Spirit

The collection, presented for the third season at the Park Avenue Armory, highlighted a contemporary take on classic rock silhouettes, from the hot-and-heavy leather looks of the ’60s, to the psychedelic prints of the ’70s, to the eccentric, edgy styles of the ’80s.

Military jackets in metallic cotton sateen evoked the devil-may-care attitude of Jimi Hendrix. Velour suits in ochre green recalled the slouchy style of Janis Joplin. And highly-tailored jackets for men looked pulled from the wardrobe of the King, Elvis Presley.

Rock music and sex appeal go hand in hand, and neither was in short supply. Y-3 proposed cropped tanks for both men and women, and, for the girls […]. The rest of the show presented intriguing contrasts of volume—tight on top, loose on bottom, and vice versa—in classic Yamamoto fashion. Y-3 also tapped Yoko Ono—another icon of music—for a selection of coats and T-shirts printed with the artist’s text pieces, like “Open Your Eyes, Open Your Door, Open Your Legs, Open Your Sides, OpenYour Heart, Open Your Mouth.”

On the footwear front, Y-3 keeps innovating. The lightweight new Kubo shoe for men and women boasts a fully foldable sole and feels a bit like walking on air. Other footwear featured reflective threading and treatments, making for an eye-catching new look. Like all things Y-3, they combine breakthrough technology with tradition and elegance.

Despite his love of hard rock, Y-3 designer Yohji Yamamoto was absent from the presentation, staying in Tokyo instead to complete his femme collection, which will be shown in Paris in October. “I’m a rocker at heart,” the designer said, “but work must come first. See you all in Paris!”

Because of copyright laws, you may view the collection on my main website where right click is disabled.

Black in Spring/Summer 2011 with Blaak

Both graduates of St. Martin’s of London, Sachiko Okada (British Japanese) and Aaron Sharif (British Pakistani) launced their label, Blaak, in 1998 on the premises of the color black—the consummation and totality of all colors.

For their 2011 spring/summer collection, the duo turns to stripes and knickers in a symmetrical silhouette with buckled straps and a shiny wet look.

View the collection here.

Photos Copyright Dan and Corina Lecca at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

Camping with Hysteric Glamour in Summer 2011!

Hysteric Glamour was founded in 1984 by Nobuhiko Kitamura, who was born 1962 in Tokyo, Japan.

The design concept of the label is based largely on American culture typical of the Sixties and Seventies—particularly music, comics, porn, automobiles, packaging, and neon lights—all of which influenced designer Kitamura.

The target market of Hysteric Glamour ranges from upper teens to mid-20s, offering tees and jeans in vivid colors.

For spring/summer 2011, Hysteric Glamour takes men camping in the wilderness to fish and grill…well…kind of.

Flip through the look book here for yourself—it’s hysterical...Hysteric Glamour!

Photos by Ellen Von Unwerth, Copyright Hysteric Glamour.

Bring on the Noise 2010 Autumn/Winter Collection

In the past I have posted several articles on Japanese designer, Daisuke Konno, including an interview and an update on his label Bring on the Noise.

So, let me bring on some more noise with a press release about the most recent collection:

“Tokyo Rockers”
The rock scene boom lost its momentum in the late 1970’s. Bringing about a breakthrough, musicians gathered and played gigs continuously in many parts of Japan. This movement is called “Tokyo Rockers.”

Our season theme is the movement spawned in the late 1970’s and early ’80’s, the dawn of Punk. We pursue originality no other brands can create.

Every product is made in Japan, placing importance on the concept of a “Japanese-made product,” as the season theme is the Japanese culture.

Support Brand: Libertas (Shoes)
“Libertas” means ‘Freedom’ in Latin. Our theme is to share feelings of empathy with people wearing our shoes, pursuing craftsmanship for creating unique products.



Stylist: Satoshi Yoshimoto
Photographer: Takahiro Otsuji
Hair/Makeup: Satoshi Ito
Models: Kuruucrew, Fratten,Gasbag, Ken Takehisa.

Photos & slideshow Copyright Bring on the Noise.

Ethosens “COVER OF LIFE/What wraps you?’

Yui Hashimoto is a Japanese designer that is deep in creative thought.

For autumn/winter 2010, Yui has created a collection for his label Ethosens, drawing from the images of giving life through natural birth from the mother’s body.

He defines the collection as “space wrapped with ultimate safety.”

Yui goes on to say, “Humans are mysterious, sensitive and irreplaceable. For this reason, we took the meaning that wearing clothes is not only for the body but also for the spirit, creating the collection under the theme of COVER OF LIFE/What wraps you?”

His closing words are food for thought: “People are vulnerable and live by wrapping with something. It may be love, emptiness, or fence.”



Photo & slideshow 2010 a/w collection Copyright Ethosens.

KURO Denim Spring/Summer 2011

Japanese label, KURO, has released its new collection for spring/summer 2011.

Graphite

‘Graphite’ is the base model in KURO’s denim developments, and can be said to represent the standard for all products. Of the three models developed in the first stage, its line is the slimmest, with both a hip and a depth above clothes that is set at the ideal level to emphasize the length of the wearer’s legs. The materials used in KURO’s denim maintain the highest levels of quality. In particular, the fabrics produced by Nihon Menpu Textile Co., LTD and Yoshikawa Orimono Co., Ltd., used in this model’s selvedge (double-edged), can be described as high-quality materials, even when viewed by world standards.

Fixer

Through its use of Kibata’s fabrics, ‘Fixer’ recreates the genuine charm that denim naturally has. As they are worn, these jeans take on a so-called ‘vintage’ look of the 1950s. The ‘Fixer,’ which uses a one-sided selvedge, blends well with any kind of style, and is a versatile model made to a slightly thin line.

Anarchism
Recreating the genuine charm that denim naturally has, through its use of Kibata’s fabrics, ‘Anarchism’ is notable for its regular depth above clothes and, featuring the most standard line of the three models that KURO has developed in its first season, it is a model made with a one-sided selvedge that is suitable for highly active wear. The pockets were stitched with a combination of both fine count (fine thread) and low count (wide thread) threads, known as a no. zero thread (the widest of threads among those used for denim), and were made with great attention given to design as well.

Fabrics Used in KURO’s Denim
Kibata: Woven fabric that is unprocessed. This was often used in denim of the past (until around the 1950s), and is notable for its unique fluffy feel and texture.

● The draper’s used by KURO is Chrome Hearts, who have an established reputation among other companies in the denim industry, and are also used by the likes of RRL (POLO RALPH LAUREN).

Sewing of KURO’s Denim
● Sewing is performed by Oikawa Denim, who possesses world-standard technology (and performs sewing for other leading denim brands such as LEVI’S red).

● We use a two-fold yarn made from single white and golden-brown yarns which gives our products great strength. Because we use cotton yarn, the color fades from the fabric after factory distressing and during use, which produces the feel and look of used clothing.

● The hand-made style stitches on the front, back and coin pockets are the most notable features, and plain seam stitching is also done in the same color. As this technology is only available in a limited number of factories, the manufacturing process is twice as long as standard.
● Thin yarns were used for parts where hand-stitching was performed, and because needlework was also very fine, puckering (fabric twists caused due to seam shrinkage by sewing, and pulling) may well appear when washed.

● Belt loops were also sewn in a unique way, with stitching intervals that created bumps to give off a vintage look. As key points such as yarn thickness and stitch width are modified, the stitching has a solid, three-dimensional look.

Photos & slideshow Copyright KURO.

A New Launch: KURO Denim

‘KURO’ is a denim brand that was launched during the 2010 spring and summer season. The brand’s name means ‘black’ in Japanese.

The word ‘black’ can convey a dark, lonely image, or express a mysterious and grand kind of strength. For Japanese people, ‘black’ also represents the color of beautiful hair. All these inspirations that can be derived from ‘black’ have been poured into KURO’s denim.

Kuro designer, Yusuke Yatsuhashi, hails from Tokyo where he learned the art of denim while working for a small independent Japanese brand:

With Japanese craftsmanship—renowned as being the best in the world in the denim-production industry, in areas such as spinning, sewing, dyeing and manufacturing—poured into every detail, and with playful stitch-work giving rise to flowing lines, as well as its strong emphasis on being ‘Made in Japan,’ this range of items announced its stylish and innovative designs and unparalleled cost-performance when premiering for its first season.

It has made a spectacular debut, receiving high praise from showrooms and buyers in countries all over the world, beginning with its exhibition at Italy’s PITTI UOMO, where buyers from around the world gathered.


Photos s/s 2011 collection & text Copyright KURO.

0044 paris—Harder Streetwear, Softer Looks

If you like streetwear, you will love the 2010 autumn/winter collection of 0044 paris, which, directed by Seiichiro Shimamura, is 100% made in France.

This collection employs fabrics that are harder than usual, such as waxed denim sarouel pants (similar to the drop crotch) and leather sleeved blousons—short jackets with a waist belt.

Then, there is the redingote styled jackets, which will cause you to reminisce of the age-old dandy.

Used for travel on horseback, the first redingote dates back to 18th-century England where they were called “riding coats.”

The redingote could be a loose greatcoat with wide collars or a tight fitting frock as with the light cavalry known as Hussars.

Either way, talent reigns when labels like 0044 paris take us from the streets of modernity to the Victorian/Edwardian roads of London, from the ballrooms of Paris to the battlefields of the Crimean War!



For more reading on 0044, please go to the following articles:
The Revolutionary Romanticism of 0044 paris Marches On!
0044 Paris Celebrates 10 Years of Revolutionary Romanticism

Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright 0044 paris.

“yoshio kubo” by Yoshio Kubo

Have you ever wondered what happens after graduation to students who come from overseas to study in your country?

Well, Japanese designer Yoshio Kubo graduated from the Philadelphia University School of Engineering and Textiles in 2000.

After graduation, he worked in New York as an assistant for the astereotypical womenswear designer Robert Danes.

Four years later, Yoshio Kubo decided to return to Japan where he launched his eponymous label yoshio kubo.

So, let’s take a look at what he has been up to back home for the 2010 autumn/winter season!

Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection yoshio kubo, Courtesy of and Copyright by Japan Fashion Week Organization.

IZREEL—a Calculated Design

Kazuhiro Takakura is a native of Kanagawa, a prefecture located in Greater Tokyo with Yokohama as its capital.

He majored in mathematics at university, but after graduation Takakura decided to plunge himself into the world of fashion as an apparel manufacturer.

Launching @IZREEL in 2003, the young designer immediately debuted in Copenhagen and at Bread & Butter in Berlin a year later.

Takakura may be young, but he thoroughly understands the need for flawless designs in a country that presents fierce competition in the menswear industry.

Thus far, he has delivered every time with the precision of a calculating mathematician as he proved, once again, with his 2010 autumn/winter collection at the most recent Japan Fashion Week.



Photo & slideshow 2010 a/w collection @IZREEL, Courtesy of and Copyright by Japan Fashion Week Organization.

Simple and Fun Fashion by Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets

Vigor. Punch. Positivity. Vividness. These are just some of the dynamic guts that Gut’s Dynamic Cabarets displayed at the most recent Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo!

Gut’s Dynamic Cabarets was founded, first, as an underwear brand in 2007 by Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu (photo above). Soon, the label was producing entire “Rock and sexy” collections, which have become popular among fellow musicians.

Aki and Kuzu have a big dream; in their words: “We believe that only warmth of person can change this gloomy world.” Meanwhile, they are having a lot of fun following their career.

The two designers want you to feel good too and, thus, instill upbeat feelings into all their creations through the choice of various colors, such as pink, which can make you feel happy.

So why not have some fun now with Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets at the last Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo.



Photo & slideshow autumn/winter 2010 Copyright Gut’s Dynamic Cabarets.