The Florence Contribution to Men’s Fashion

Florence is often associated with the rebirth of culture, having become the cradle of the Renaissance. As I read 4,000 pages of Machiavelli in college, I have always held a certain fascination with this city.

Despite all the lessons of medieval diplomacy and Renaissance politics, what I did not learn in college was the Florentine influence on menswear!

Already by the 12th century, the great-grandfather of the 3-piece suit had appeared on the scene in the form of a long doublet—the snug-fitting buttoned jacket. This garment was donned with a mantel and leggings (tight-fitting hose).

By the Renaissance, the doublet had become shorter, exposing the leggings, which made Florentine menswear scandalous to the outsider! Oftentimes, this look was accompanied by long hoods.

In the 14th century, silk made its way to Italy and Florence emerged as the fashion capital of the world. Drawing from the French Gothic influence, the Florentine look was elongated and sumptuous.

By the 15th and 16th centuries, tunics were no longer popular. If worn, however, they were tight and short like a shirt with a belt tied around the waist.

Now, Florence is home to one of the most prestigious menswear trade shows in the world: Pitti Uomo.

Photo Public Domain.

From Feudalism to Family Feuds

From the Swabian rule of the southern Italian peninsula, the baton soon passed on to the pro-papal party, the Angevins (from the House of Anjou, a northeastern French province that gave kings to Hungary, Poland, and Naples), who, with whip and spur, dispatched four hundred soldiers to ravage Ischia with fire and sword.

During their reign, Naples was second only to Paris. From the raising of this dynasty’s flag in 1266 until the unification of the Italian peninsula in 1860, Naples was hailed as the capital of the Kingdom of Sicily, an empire that encompassed the entire South of the boot.

In 1442, however, Naples kissed Anjou “adieu” and bid “hola” to Aragon, a Christianized kingdom in northeast Spain whose reign endured from the 11th to 15th centuries and, having united with Castile, formed Spain in 1479.

When he House of Aragon harnessed the southern empire, the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies was inaugurated, embracing the sourthern half of the Italian peninsula.

This period, the dawn of the Renaissance, marks a time of new dress, which was characterized by stylish excessiveness, complexity, and flamboyance.

Basically, the natural silhouette was distorted through padded sleeves and doublets, ruffles, and stuffed stockings.

The basic elements consisted of the wide, low-neck shirt and tight-fitting doublet, which had with puffy sleeves. Belted at the waist, the doublet gave the appearance of a pleated skirt.

A technique called “slashing” started on the Italian peninsula and spread throughout Europe, whereby slits were “slashed” into the doublet so that the shirt could be pulled through.

Colors were dark but bold, often found in combinations like black and gold, black and red, and so on. Menswear abounded in new accessories.

Feathers were placed anywhere from wide-brimmed hats down to the legs. A bowl cut was a popular hairdo and, at times, a frizz or a lovelock down over the shoulder.

2010 Trends & Takeaways from the period:
Be prepared for some outlandish but playful patterns and prints in the spring/summer 2010 collections! You can expect lots of collage patchwork and kaleidoscope patterning with nature and floral themes, all the while mixing it up in all sorts of ways. Larger sleeves to the elbow and extremely low-cut neck lines will accompany bold surfacing and sequins.

Photo top left Ascanio Colonna & Giovanna of Aragon, Procession Sant’Alessandro, Ischia, Public Domain.
Photo middle right Fabrizio Colonna & Agnesina of Moltefeltro, Procession Sant’Alessandro, Ischia, Public Domain.
Photo middle left Holy Roman Emperor Carlo V & Isabella of Portugal, Procession Sant’Alessandro, Ischia, Public Domain.
Photo bottom right Prospero Colonna & Isabella of Aragon, Procession Sant’Alessandro, Ischia, Public Domain.